The bordermarkers of the Pyrenees : all my trips
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- tuesday 23 june 2020 -
Digging up 044-3e, relocate 044L, doing 002-011

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Summary: part of a series of 6 trips in june 2020 near Luchon and in the Basque country. This is trip 3.

Today: a special day. In the first trip, I will find the lost third border-plate on Col de Lizarrieta and move bm044L to its original location. The second trip is for redoing bm002 to 011.

Basecamp = camping Xokoan in Dantxaria.

Weather: very hot.

Trip 1

This is my working area for the first trip.
My basecamp for my trips in the Basque country: camping Xokoan in Dantxarria. I arrived here yesterday.


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And this my toolkit for trip 1.

The two essential items are the spade and the surveyor's measuring-tape ("landmeter").


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I arrive around 7am  at Col de Lizarrieta, early enough to avoid unwanted attention.

Bm044-plate 3 is an unnumbered plate at ground level with an E and a F. There were three of them placed in 1988 at the flat broad pass between bm044 and 044a. No. 1 and no. 2 still exist but no. 3 seemed lost.

But could it be buried under the tarmac or under a landslide from the hillside?

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Luckily the exact intermediate distances of the new intermediate markers between bm044 and 045 are mentioned in de treaty of 1988 (see this page)

Bm044-plate 3 is only 3,8m from bm044A but my first measurement


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gave no result: bare tarmac under a thin surface of earth.


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Then I measure the distance from plate 2 (32,9m) in a straigh line to bm044A.

As you can see, I was close with my first digging.


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Both measurements result in a more precise location and there I find bm044-plate 3!


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Bm044-plate 3 as seen from bm044A.


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Bm044-plate 3


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Bm044-plate 3

Mission accomplished, I'm very content.


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Then the next target: moving bm044L to its original position. 

Since long bm044L was lying besides bm044J and no one seemed to care.

This picture was taken on
20190722


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This picture: having arrived at bm045 with my tools.


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The distance from bm045 to the original location of bm044L is 20,9m.


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And that gives this location, confirmed by a measurement from bm044K (13,0m) and a previously established gps-location.


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Digging a hole for bm044L.


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Then a tough job: rolling bm044L from its position besides bm044J uphill to its original location.

The round concrete base helps a lot in rolling it uphill.


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Bm044L installed at its original position.


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I am very satisfied and proud of myself.

But then I realize that I put the marker the wrong way: the 44L sign has to be in the direction of bm045 with the F and E in their correct positions: F towards France and E towards Spain.


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So undigging the marker and rotating the 44L sign in the direction of bm045.

Now the F


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is on the correct side.


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Bm044L, now in perfect position.


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Bm044L


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Bm044L, looking back to bm044K


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Bm044K


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I am contented and return to my car. Both jobs tooks me 2 hours to do.

Then I drive via Spain to Col d'Ibardin for my second trip.

track-20200623.kml
(click to open this trip in Google Earth or copy link to Google Maps; click right on this link to download gpx-version). The gps-track has not been manually  corrected which explains the inaccuracy and misalignment at some points. For cartographic backgrounds: see the cartography-page

Gps-waypoints of all bordermarkers (most recent version):
kml:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.kml
gpx:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.gpx (with elevation added by gpsvisualizer.com)
According to Garmin Basecamp (uncorrected track):

Distance: 14,5 km
Max-height: 568m
Min-height: 1m
Elevation: +855m -840m
Total elevation: 1695m

Start 10:05  Finish 17:03
Total time: 6:58
Door - via Spanje - naar Col d'Ibardin, kopje koffie + croissant en daarna een rondwandeling gemaakt. Eerst via de GR10 naar onderen, later een gele en andere rood-witte route die me langs die laatste boerderij brengen en zo tot bijna bij de Bidoassa. Ik probeer nog de rood-witte route door het weiland dat grotendeels is overgenomen door de varens, vooral het laatste stuk tot aan het bos langs de oever: manshoog. Ga weer terug om de steile gele route naar boven te nemen. Dat valt me zwaar, moet onderweg een tijdje rusten en drinken. Het is erg heet en ik ben wat bang voor de warmtestuwing die ik ooit bij Le Perthus. Heel kalm verder en ik kom bij 003 uit. Eerst nog 002 doen en daarna een uur pauzeren met koffie en zo. Dan over de crête (die golvend klimt) terug naar Col d'Ibardin. Onderweg geweest van 10 tot 17, ik ben plakkerig en moe. Wat boodschappen in een venta (mondkapje) en terug naar de camping.

I park my car at Col d'Ibardin and enjoy a coffee and croissant at a terrace.

Then I pick up the GR10-trail. I want to descend easily to the Bidasoa-river, climb to bm002 and then walk back to Col d'Ibardin.

This picture: at the far western side of Col d'Ibardin, looking back. In the  background the hilltop of La Rhune.


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It's a nice part of the GR10, in fact the first stage of it from Hendaye to Col d'Ibardin.


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Later on I switch to a local waymarked trail: the sentier des douaniers,


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which finally arrives at the road from Hendaye via Biriatou to the last farmhouse.

Note the red-white waymarks: this is not the GR10 but another GR.


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The last farmhouse. Beyond it


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the waymarked trail (red-white and yellow) continues and descends


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to this sharp bend in the trail.

Jan-Willem Doomen and I camped here on:


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1 april 2009
The trail descends gently further untill this footbridge


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after which the trail continues at the other side of the stream.


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Arriving at the meadows near the Bidasoa-river.

Now the waymarks part: the red-white route will enter the meadow and go after a curve south - parallel to the river - in the direction of bm001. The yellow route climbs steeply to bm003.


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First I do a reconnaissance of the red-white trail through the meadow.


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As many meadows in the Pyrenees experience in the last decade: the lack of grazing cattle gives fern the opportunity to take over.

This picture: looking south, towards the end of the meadow. The trail is hardly waymarked.


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Approaching the end of the meadow, the fern is now men's high.


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At the end of the meadow the trail enters the forest along the river


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through this gate. The red-white waymarks reappear.

I return through the meadow


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and start climbing the steep yellow waymarked trail to bm003 which is a 300m ascent.


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Parts of it are covered with fern.

The trail is steep and it is very hot.

I have to stop and rest for a while in the shade, a bit afraid for the heatstroke I experienced on 12-7-2019 near Le Perthus in the Pyrénées Orientales.


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A view back.


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Then I arrive at the hillridge with bm003.


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But first I want to do bm002 before taking a break.

That means descending through the forest


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to the open hillside and spot bm002 to the right.


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Bm002


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Bm002


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Bm002


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There are several crosses on the rocks around it. This compilation of picture shows them:

Bm002

I could't find the cross at the foot of the rock because I couldn't get close enough due to the undergrowth.


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Bm002

But the other two are easy to find. You can spot one on the rock in the background.


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That's this one with another one on top of the rock.


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Bm002 with those 2 crosses, seen from above.


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I return to bm003.


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Bm003


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Bm003


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Bm003

Time to take a break for an hour: coffee, crackers, taking notes, resting.


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Then going on, a last view back to bm003.



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Navigation is easy: just follow the hillridge going E-NE towards Col d'Ibardin.

But in its undulating elevation not to be underestimated.

This is bm004.


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Bm004


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Bm005 is downhill at the 'pass' ahead.


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Bm005


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Bm005


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Bm005


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Having climbed again and procedeing towards a rocky part of the ridge


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with this view to La Rhune.


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Bm006


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Bm006


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Bm006


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Bm006


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Continuing on the trail


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to bm007.


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Bm007


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Bm007


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Bm007


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Bm007 with a cross on the rock in front.


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Further on - on a hilltop - bm008.


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Bm008, in the background the sea.


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Bm008


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Bm008


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Bm008,

note the groove on top, indicating the borderline.


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Bm008, a view back.


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Continuing to


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bm009 which a atypical. Must have been a replacement of a lost original marker.


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Bm009


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Bm009


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Bm009


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Bm009, in the background some


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geodetic marker, I think.


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And the iconic La Rhune keeps drawing the photographer's attention.


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Bm010, between the horses.


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Bm010


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Bm010


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Bm010,

Note: no groove on top of it.


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Gradually the trail is descending now and


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Col d'Ibardin comes in sight.


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Bm011 stands left of the trail in the midst of fern.


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Bm011


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Bm011


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Bm011


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Almost back at the Col d'Ibardin.


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This is an unnumbered marker


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with a cross on top of it.

End of my trip, I am tired. I walk back to my car and return to the camping.


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